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Things to do in Montevideo

Become a bookworm

Uruguayans love their literature; join them with their noses in a book at Libreria Puro Verso (tel: +598 2901 6429; www.libreriapuroverso.com). Reflected in a series of glorious art deco stained glass panels, the piles and piles of books in the shop invite study, while the frivolous upstairs restaurant is the place to chill and chat.

Have a sundowner in Mercado del Puerto

As the sun starts to set, sip one of the city's signature medio y medio (half dry white wine, half sparkling wine) vinos at Cafe Roldos, Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825. Affording views over Montevideo's bustling port, this legendary drinking hole has been the meeting place for the city's intelligentsia since it opened in 1886.

Join locals enjoying afternoon cortado

The afternoon break, merienda, is an important tradition in Montevideo and nothing is more central to it than a good cortado (coffee with a dash of milk). For an atmospheric coffee shop packed with old furniture and dangling chandeliers, head to Cafe Brasilero (tel: +598 2 917 2035; www.cafebrasilero.com.uy), a cultural landmark in Montevideo since 1877.

Sip mate on La Rambla

Originating in Argentina, mate is a ubiquitous, warm herbal drink that is wildly popular in Montevideo. Hang out with the hip crowd, who sip the bitter beverage along the Pocitos promenade, by buying a drinking gourd, bombilla (metal straw) and some dried yerba mate leaves from the La Rambla shops.

Watch candombe dancers in the street

Candombe is a style of music and dance that originated from African slaves who immigrated to Uruguay from Argentina in the 19th century. The colourful, carnival-style choreography is infectious. For those in Malvín at midday on Sundays, it's easy to get caught up in the brightly decorated costumes and drummed rhythms.

A digital image at https://illuminoto.com

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Cala di Volpe

Guest rooms in this modern hotel, right on the waterfront, are tastefully decorated with dark wood fittings and white walls. Light, modern cuisine is on offer in the restaurant, and the pool and spa have pleasant views over the river.

Four Points

Cheaper and more central than its elder brother the Sheraton Montevideo, this hotel scores highly in all categories, although the competition is hardly fierce. There is a small indoor pool and spa, while guest rooms are modern and clean, if lacking inspiration. A full complement of business facilities makes this hotel a popular choice for those visiting the city for work.

Hotel Oxford

Recently renovated, but still with old-fashioned touches, this cheap Montevideo hotel is a popular bolthole for business travellers on a budget, though its city-centre location is good for tourists too. The restaurant is basic, but there are plenty of other dining opportunities nearby.

Hotel Plaza Fuerte

In the interesting, old part of Montevideo, this great-value hotel was built in 1913 and is a national monument. Each room has its own décor scheme and all are spacious, while some of the suites have gigantic Jacuzzi baths.

Hotel Palacio

With a great old-timey feel, this ageing classic is a favourite for travellers on a budget. Touches like original tile work, brass bed heads and a few sticks of antique furniture add to the appeal. Rooms at the front have small balconies but can be noisy, while those at the back have good views over the plaza.

La Baguala

A slice of paradise set within 400 acres of privately-owned land, this hotel will see to nearly every need, from a spacious outdoor pool to its own private beach, à la carte dining options to entertainment for the little ones with a fully equipped games room. Breakfast is complimentary and rooms come furnished with flat-screen TVs, safety deposit box and minibar.