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Things to do in Nairobi

Go hiking in Karura Forest

Of the three gazetted urban forests in Nairobi, Karura is the largest and most beautiful. Criss-crossed by 50km (31 miles) of hiking trails, the forest is packed with wildlife including monkeys, marmosets and bush babies. Not to be missed is the spectacular 15m (50ft) waterfall courtesy of the Nairobi River.

Go on a city safari

Nairobi is the self-styled safari capital of Africa and one of the best starting points to spot the big five: lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino. Most can be seen locally at Nairobi National Park (www.kws.go.ke), but those prepared to go further afield should contact KATO (www.katokenya.org) to choose a reputable operator.

Saddle up for a horse safari

Nairobi is surrounded by spectacular hilly countryside and a great way to explore is by horse. Saddle up with Malo Stables (tel: +254 704 494 464; www.malostables.com) for a guided forest ride.

Try exotic barbecue meats

Nyama choma (grilled meat) is the unofficial Kenyan national dish and served practically everywhere. While the usual suspects (beef, goat and chicken) are popular, so too are more exotic cuts, among them camel and crocodile. Carnivore (tel: +254 20 514 1300; www.tamarind.co.ke/carnivore) is a good venue to try some

Visit a working tea plantation

The Kenyans love their tea – just as well given that they're one of the world's largest tea producers. Many of Nairobi's tea farms, like Kiambethu Tea Farm (tel: +254 20 201 2542; www.kiambethufarm.com), happily welcome visitors. Tours include a home-cooked lunch, a history of Kenyan tea farming and plenty of the produce itself.

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Giraffe Manor

Where else in the world can you be woken in the morning by a giraffe peering into your bedroom window? Attached to the AFEW Giraffe Centre, this grand Edwardian manor is decked out with Karen Blixen's old furniture, and staying here feels like staying in a posh country home. Factor in fine food and wine and a personal chauffeur and it's easy to see the appeal.

Kenya Comfort Hotel

Well looked after, central and friendly, the Kenya Comfort Hotel offers decent facilities at a reasonable price. It's a secure hotel in Nairobi, and the rooftop lounge offers beautiful views over the city. The rooms are tiled, modern and clean, and there's a restaurant and bar if you don't feel like braving the city streets after dark.

Hotel Ambassadeur Nairobi

Standards have slipped slightly since the days when this tall tower hosted politicians and presidents, but it's still a cut above the competition. The comfortable rooms are well appointed, and there's a good bar and restaurant. It's a popular venue in Nairobi for weddings and conferences, so book ahead.

Sarova Stanley

One of the most historic hotels in Nairobi, the Sarova Stanley first opened its doors in 1902, and boasts a rich history of famous former guests, among them Ernest Hemingway. Rooms are well appointed and soundproof, and there's a gym, sauna, rooftop pool and bar. Don't miss out on the legendary Thorn Tree Cafe either, a travellers' haunt since British times.

Nairobi Serena Hotel

One of the more elegant options in Nairobi, this sophisticated place draws on influences from across Africa, and the interiors are full of tribal sculptures, textiles and wooden furniture. The spotless rooms have marble bathrooms and views over the grounds and lush gardens. There is also a swimming pool, health club and shops. Although the hotel itself is very secure, adjacent Central Park and Uhuru Park are not safe to walk around at night.

Central YMCA

This is a well-appointed, central hostel in Nairobi. Good-value rooms, reasonable food, swimming pool, tennis courts and an aerobics studio make this feel more like a small hotel, and you don't have to be male or Christian to stay here.