Review: Jock Safari Lodge, Kruger National Park, South Africa
If joining the stampedes of football fans heading to South Africa for the 2010 World Cup doesn't appeal to you, escape the crowds and get closer to nature at the Jock Safari Lodge. But be prepared - you may just find yourself among stampedes of another sort.
The Jock Safari Lodge sits at the south end of the Kruger National Park, one of Africa’s largest game reserves, nestled between the Biyamiti and Mitomeni Rivers. Two buildings, Main Jock and Little Jock, situated upon 14,826 acres (6,000 hectares) of private land make up this luxury space, which offers a unique combination of spa and safari experiences.
With stripped tree limbs serving as handrails and beams, the main building is reminiscent of an overgrown tree house. Its 12 thatched-roofed suites each have an elegant en-suite bathroom and private sala, or viewing platform, with picturesque views of the rivers and reserve. While soaking in the outdoor shower or cooling off in the private plunge pool, you can see a springbok hop past or a gray lourie perch nearby. Animals casually roam around the lodge; people and nature blend seamlessly together.
The safari experience is equally as impressive as the lodgings. Groups of no more than six people are assigned to an experienced ranger who serves as a safari guide. Since my husband and I are travelling on our own, we share our ranger, Dumi, with two, joke-cracking couples from Johannesburg. Dumi stays with us and throughout our visit during drives and meals.
Days at the lodge are not spent lulling around. Dumi makes sure we’re up at the crack of dawn, just like the animals. After a quick cup of tea at 0600, we set off to explore “The Kruger,” as the South Africans call it. The park is about 418km (260 miles) north to south and on average 61km (38 miles) from east to west, although some parts are as wide as 88km (55 miles). Think the size of the U.S. state of Connecticut, but with abundant wildlife that includes the animals referred to by hunters as “the big five” – lions, elephants, cape buffalo, rhino and leopards – as well as 507 bird species.
As we drive along the bumpy road, Dumi educates us about the flora and fauna. He tells us about the geography, pointing out that the kopjes (pronounced kop-ees) are not just rocky hills, but rather accumulated granite, volcanic ash and dust. Predators use them as lookouts for prey.
Elephants, giraffes and different species of antelopes grace the scrubby bush. We spot grouse and large martial eagles going about their daily business. There’s an antelope called a waterbuck with a distinctive bull’s eye ring on his hind and white bib beneath his neck. And there’s a mama elephant who keeps brushing her tail against the baby behind her to make sure it is safe. Hyenas, looking like they have an advanced case of osteoporosis, slink stealthily down the road.
Our most exciting sighting is a lone wild dog. It is unusual to see these endangered animals, especially without its pack. As Dumi summons other rangers in the area by radio, we become the pack. Before long, the wild dog is surrounded by Land Rovers lined up at close range to watch his every movement. Somehow, it doesn’t even faze him.
We return around noon, grab a bite, and lounge as the afternoon fades away. My preference is to head to the Pilgrims Rest Retreat, a full service spa with sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi. During the Desert Heat Self-Healing Body Wrap, my therapist massages me with a warm, soothing lotion, then wraps me like a piece of sushi. This heavenly treatment, plus the 20-minute scalp massage, lures me into a languorous sleep.
The next morning, my husband and I do a walking safari. The difference between a drive and a bush stroll is like the difference between snorkelling and diving: in one you observe and in the other you are part of the action. We step in single file with two rangers in front. One ranger stands guard while the other explains things we see like spoor (footprints) and scat (dung). I never thought the latter would be interesting, but the rangers explain that animals use it to communicate and mark their territory. Then as we turn round we get the best surprise of all as two majestic white rhinos are standing close by.
Relaxation, adventure, and luxury – the Jock Safari Lodge has it all. It’s a South African experience that won’t disappoint.
Jock Safari Lodge
South Africa
Website: www.jocksafarilodge.com
Price: Rates range from £316 per person, per night all-inclusive of food, lodging, game drives, taxes and local South African beverages.
