In the heart of magnificent Royal Deeside stands Darroch Learg Hotel, with its undeniably glorious vantage point and stately grandeur, as Gilly Pickup recently discovered.
I have to say that ‘Birkhall’, my spacious, well furnished bedroom, was so relaxing that I didn’t want to stir from it. With a marvellously comfortable canopied bed, gentle colour scheme and glorious antique furniture including a writing desk, velvet chaise longue, squashy armchairs and lamps aplenty it made me feel very lady-of-the-manor. One large window has a glorious view over the valleys right across to Lochnagar – the soaring mountain immortalised in verse by Lord Byron.
Although I could have happily lingered in my room for hours, dinner beckoned, so after freshening up I made my way downstairs for a pre-prandial drink in the cosy drawing room with its antiques, paintings, comfy chairs and log fire. The hotel’s public spaces ooze authentic Highland character retaining the charm of their private mansion days. As I sipped my gin & tonic and perused the menu, I couldn’t help but feel rather spoilt.
The hotel has been awarded three AA rosettes for food every year since 1997 so guests should pack their appetite when they come. Dinner is in the spacious, candlelit conservatory-style restaurant, a popular place and open to non-guests. Although formal, there is no hint of stuffiness. Tables, beautifully laid out with white linen table cloths, napkins and fine crystal, are arranged along the windows overlooking the pretty patio garden.
An amuse-bouche of mushroom soup with a puff-pastry lid got my tastebuds in training for what was to follow. Starters included Scottish wood pigeon en croûte topped with shallot and mushroom jam and pear chutney; sea scallops with Stornoway black pudding and sweetcorn puree and warm Loch Fyne smoked trout with free range poached egg, which was my choice. Mains are sturdy dishes like fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef with celeriac, asparagus and oxtail sauce, or loin of Deeside venison with creamed summer greens, chick pea croquette and goats cheese gnocchi. Being a fish lover, I went for the ravioli of smoked haddock with sauce vierge and parmesan and polished it off in no time. No matter what you choose though, you can be assured that you’ll be given a generous helping served with a smile.
Puddings here are as sweet and fattening as they should be and whether you opt for warm white and milk chocolate pudding with crème fraiche or an iced tiramisù terrine with orange segments, you can be sure it will be excellent. You can’t fault the wine list here either, it is assembled by a connoisseur. I finished off a memorable meal with blue Sumatra coffee, my only disappointment being that I had no room left for the delicious homemade petit fours.
Sleep came easily on the marshmallow pillows with nothing to disturb this weary traveller the whole night long. Morning broke with snatches of early morning birdsong and a thin sun highlighting the snow capped mountains. It doesn’t come much better than this.
The breakfast buffet table is an all trimmings present selection of juices, fresh fruits, prunes, grapefruit, yoghurt, cereals, homemade muesli, homemade breads and oatcakes, while cooked dishes include eggs however you like them, as well as a host of other goodies including smoked salmon, bacon, black pudding and poached haddock. I ordered a bowl of porridge, which was served with a separate bowl of cream. I like to think I know my porridge and this was top notch.
After all that delicious food, there is no shortage of ways to keep those calories in check. This area offers everything from pony trekking, hill walking and fishing, to gliding, golf and skiing. The less active might prefer to browse the numerous antique shops and galleries in the nearby small town of Ballater. But whatever your choice, you can be safe in the knowledge that home comforts and a cosy bed await you at the Darroch Learg Hotel.
Darroch Learg Hotel
Braemar Road, Ballater, Aberdeenshire AB35 5UX, UK
Tel: 013397 55443.
Wesbite: www.darrochlearg.co.uk
Bed and breakfast costs from £65 to £115 pp depending on time of year.
